Our next stop was at Pazhuvur, 40 kms from GKC. It was quite pleasant, rolling over the uneven roads, enjoying the country-side in the fading sunlight. We'd almost crossed Pazhuvur before we realised it. Keezh Pazhuvur possesses a temple, but what we really wanted to see was at Mel Pazhuvur- the Avani Gandharpa Easwaram (mentioned by Gokul)- built by the great Pazhuvettaraiyars at the height of their powers. The name board specified 'Mannu Perum Pazhuvur" right in front of a grayish-black, desolate structure- it was the board that drew our attention first. Everyone tumbled out with their camera paraphernalia and stood around, exclaiming.
"Hey, this is it!" "Ithuthaanaa athu?!" "Ithuvaa Pazhuvur?"
It turned out to be the long-lost Pazhuvur-but alas! the temple was locked. The archagar arrived on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays- that day was Friday, but he hadn't come yet. It was already 6 PM and the light was fading fast. The local Pazhuvur population gathered at the tea-stall with interest, watching this group of excited (crazy?)tourists. One small group put forth the daring idea that they would bring a ladder- we could then climb it and jump into the temple complex.
Fortunately, before this could be carried out, someone appeared with the keys. A yell went up, and all of us surged up to the temple. The door opened slowly with a huge 'creak'- and we entered, to find the place full of rat/bat/ and God knew what else droppings.
The temple itself was a beautiful place. There were two 'karkoilkal' within the complex- the entrance to the first one was so small that we had to bend double to get in. Inside, the stone walls showed signs of disintegration. The musty corridor led straight to the Garbagriham, which had a solitary lingam inside it. Two pathways led outside- the second sannithi was in similar condition. There was another sannithi which held a deity- by this time it was so dark that nothing much could be made out. The general temple structure, though, gave us plenty of clues as to how appealing it muct have been in earlier days. There was an aura of serenity about it- everything was simple and peaceful. We walked around the uneven stone paths one last time, and closed the door with regret. Later, everyone voted the temple the best they'd seen so far.("ithuthaan enakku rombap pidicha koil"- Krupashankar)
We passed through Keezh Pazhuvur with a peek from the outside- night had fallen, and we had to get to Thirumazhapaadi- the birthplace of Sembiyan Maadevi- she who played such an important role in Chozha history. We reached there by 7.30 PM. Mr. SR suggested we look in at the Kollidam that flowed on the opposite side of the road to the temple- and we promptly set off.
That hour was probably one of the best in the trip. The moon was a small sliver in the sky, and faded starlight reached down to the earth. The water was flowing at the bottom of a stretch of sand, and it all seemed unearthly and very beautiful. Some of us sat down, while others stepped down into the water (which really is sweet:-). (Kamal tried to capture the scene in his Handy cam -eventually it turned out to be a few light shapes moving in the night- suspiciously like the ghosts of Kodikarai:-). A fresh breeze sprung up, and we could hardly tear ourselves away from it. It was heavenly.
The Thirumazhapaadi Koil was the inspiration for the famous pathigam "Ponnaar Meniyane...". It's a large complex, fully worthy of all its praises. Night, however, made it slightly difficult to appreciate it. Still, we could admire the vast corridors, the tiers of stone corridors, the evenness of the sculptures...and then it was time to leave.
10kms travel brought us to Thiruvaiyaaru- the place Vandiyathevan enters at the end of the first paagam after numerous travails. He entered it on Krishna jayanthi amidst gaiety and people- we entered it silently, at 8.20 PM. Thiruvaiyaaru is on the opposite shore to Thirumazhapaadi (we had seen its lights on the banks of Kollidam)- and it is an enormous complex. Aiyaarappar (Panchanatheeswarar, so named because 5 rivers join here) and Aram valartha naayaki (Dharma samvarthini) rule here- and their home is truly wonderful. We examined the Navagrahas (which all face Lord Surya in this particular temple), and talked over the precision of the typically structured architecture, the dimensions of the enormous complex, the huge, sprawling open-aired corridors (which must have been the site of God knew how many community gatherings in the past). This was where the saint Appar had his Dharisanam of Lord Shiva and his consort too. By 9, we reluctantly took our leave.
A further drive brought us to Thanjavoor- to the Oriental Towers (which was gleaming with chandeliers and sofas- our first instinct was that we'd come to the wrong place:-). We'd finished dinner at Hotel Aravind, and we checked in by 10 PM. Kamal showed us the day's travels on his handycam, and with that, Day 1 of the PS trip came to an end.
Some comments on Pavi's great account : It is extremely unfortunate that Avani Ghandharpa Iswaram is in such a dilapated condition. It has a very unique place among the chola temples in many respects - nowhere else can you see two temples under a single roof. Also, the veenadhara dakshinamoorthy who can be identified in the vimana - deserves special mention. Obviously you guys might have missed it due to fading sunlight. What to do ? This is the state of affairs in T.Nadu. Our people do not realise the greatness of their own heritage.
SRB has authored a separate book for this temple !
Reg. Kollidam memories captured beautifully in Pavi's words :
The only thing that came to my mind was Kalki's introduction to S.Sabhatham. He will detail how himself, tkc and Rajaji were sitting on the sands of Mahabhalipuram one night and how tkc's song inspired him.
"Munbu vitta kurai vandhu thotachu"
IF ANY OF YOU HAVE MISSED THIS PROLOGUE, PLEASE READ IT - IT IS MORE INTERESTING AND INSPIRING THAN THE EPIC ITSELF !
> It is extremely unfortunate that Avani Ghandharpa Iswaram is in such a dilapated condition.
Yes, 100%.
> What to do ? This is the state of affairs in T.Nadu.
One HAS TO strongly disagree....why?
You all will be surprised (at least you should be).
I am ready to resign my job any moment if only I could get that "Watchman" post in that that temple (Man, he is being paid around Rs. 5,000 p/m for a three-day-a-week, two-hours-a-day job.....I asked the local people). So, it is not that the T.N Govt. has neglected that temple, nor did it let any other temple/other things down. It is just the people, (do not say it again, 'people' means "YOU & I". It does not fit here).
If he is not doing his duty means, what shall our govt. do?
>Our people do not realise the greatness of their own heritage.
Not really. What type of image this will create in the minds of people who read this statement, especially if he/she is not from T. Nadu and reading this from Singapore, Sri Lanka, Malasia, etc.? Do you all really blieve that this government is functioning without any care for our culture and heritage?
People at that place are really concerned about the fate of their great monuments falling into pieces in front of their own eyes. Most of them are youth....one can realize if they were there. The feeling was as if we were some gods coming to rescue their heritage/temple. Maybe they assumed wrongly seeing us with a movie camera and and other photographic instruments, but we were giving them a feeling.
I do buy your statement. At the same time what gokul mentioned "Our people do not realise the greatness of their own heritage." is also correct. Now that this group have seen the temple in such a state "through the eyes of you guys went in the first trip", why don't we take this up as an issue in front of the govt.
I would say it is easy to take this in front of the govt through press. We can either contact "Kalki" or "Express" (i believe one article came in express about this group), and explain them about these temple and nobody takes care of it.
If you have taken any pictures of the temple, We can send mail to all the newspapers with the photo from this group itself. In anyway if i could be helpful please let me know.
I have been a mostly silent member enjoying all the emails floating around but thought I'd say this: after reading the travelogues, I was thinking what a shot in the arm for our tourism and thereby for all the cultural treasures it would be, if they are published (in kalki/popular newspapers?). I was already planning on visiting the places when I come home next, now I can't wait!
Maybe, the Tamilnadu tourism dept can put together a "Ponniyin Selvan" theme tour and use the funds for maintaining/renovating the structures.
My dear young friends I have been a silent reader of the mail. I have been following the Ponniyin selvan tour.
I addressed you as young friends for I am old, 62 years. I was a professor of Mechanical enginnering at IIT Delhi for donkeys years, 34 years to be precise. I have returned to my native place Pudukkottai. What i am doing here may interst you. I have set up a centre for arts and culture, called Sudharsanam. It has two main objectives: one is to ducument the legacy of Pudukkottai district, make local people understand the importance and help in the preservation of them. The other is to offer an opportunity to youngsters to know about our heritage through a residential 4-week summer course. The centre is a private trust of a philothropist industrialist MR VK Sundaram.
I am quite thrilled to see your enthusiasm about our culture. When you find time visit our website www.pudukkottai.org
I would be very happy to take you around Pudukkottai. Infact Kodumbalur id a Ponniyin Selvan location. Care to visit?
As for myself, I have done a very detailed study of Ajanta paintings. I have given lectures-slideshows in India and abroad. I also give lectures on Physics and Aesthetics of Music, An Introduction to Ancient Tamil Literature, Sound of Sanskrit, and a host of other topics.
I can explain the activities of Sudharsanam later. Or one of you can vist us and write a review of the visit.
I can be reached at sswami@vsnl.com, Phone at Pudukkottai (Res) 04322-222650; Office 04322-230666; Postal Address: 47, Charles Nagar - II, Pudukkottai-622005